'Daisy' goes to Dun Laoghaire

As an enthusiastic new Ruffian owner I was ready to take on any challenge, so the National Championships in Dun Laoghaire presented a double dunter;  first I had to get the boat there and back, and then I had to compete with what I was told was a ‘take no prisoner’ hard racing fleet, much bigger that our local fleet.

The thought of the sea passage did not present a problem, I had done many much longer voyages, but with time constraints weather was going to play a large part. As it transpired the wind gods were kind and we burned quite a bit of diesel getting there.

We sailed in company with Brian and Lorna on ‘Scorpio’, an early morning start 2 hours before LW to make full use of the south going tide, we reached Ardglass eight hours later. I had a family party to go to that evening but my crew, Fiona and Ellie May, went with Brian and Lorna in search of dinner. The recommended ‘bar/restaurant’ was not serving food that night, the local chippy had no fish!    IN ARDGLASS?     Thank goodness for the Chinese!

Phase two of the passage was equally uneventful and enjoyable for all that. We arrived in Dun Laoghaire in time to see the Thursday evening racing fleets heading for the harbour so we headed in with them and tied up to the pontoon by the National Yacht Club. We were warmly greeted by Larry Powers, local Ruffian owner and ex-Commodore, who directed us to the post-racing barbeque and terrace bar – the Guinness was very good!

Racing for me was a real education, 20 boats on the start line, rounding marks and a spinnaker approach to the lee mark with 8 or 9 others (“you have no . . . . . water Daisy!”) was daunting to say the least. However we survived the 7 races in 3 days without mishap and managed to be 16^th out of 20, I was happy enough with that. At this point I should thank my trusty crew, (in alphabetical order) Geraldine, Gillian, Kirstie and Mary, whose energy and enthusiasm was fantastic!

On the social side, NYC were extremely hospitable, barbeques after racing, a splendid Championship Dinner on the Saturday, unrestricted use of their magnificent clubhouse, and courteous and patient bar staff (we were usually the last to leave!).

Fiona and I sailed Daisy home in company with Scorpio. We had an easy passage to Ardglass where we took no chances about getting fish and chips, my brother-in-law brought them from Downpatrick. An early start from Ardglass, but what a great sail, a fresh NW breeze and strong tide got us back to Carrick mid-afternoon.    A happy conclusion to a great weekend.

Would I do it again next year? – You bet!

 

Wendy Grant

4 Babes & 1 Bob or Modern-day Care in the Community

 

Caravelle of Exe

Bob Harper, Fiona Grogan (his on call nurse), Geraldine Duggan, Mandy Rodgers and Mary Fitzsimmons spent 16 days cruising in Denmark aboard the beautiful 42‘ ketch - Caravelle of Exe.

0ur itinerary entailed cruising to Vordingburg – Stege – Praesto – Rodvig –Dragor - Copenhagen – Dragor – Fekse Lapeplad – Klinthelm – Stubbekobing – Stege. The average depth between and around the islands is less than 2m and all passages entailed narrow buoyage channels. What fun!!

Saturday 11th June - Dublin Airport and time to provision the boat - 4 litres of Jamesons; and 2 litres each of Gin; Rum and Vodka to go…….not that it lasted us long – somebody mentioned high temperance - but we thought that just meant high factor sun cream!!!

One flight to Copenhagen, two train journeys and two lifts in a car later we arrived in Vordingburg. The 4 Babes and Captain Bob ( who had just been let out of the home for a wee holiday) arrived at Vordingburg to board what was to become their home for the next three weeks – a beautiful 42‘ ketch called Caravelle of Exe - on loan from our very good friend. It all seemed to go to Bob‘s head!!!

Bob just out of the home - knicker elastic - fantastic!!! 

Sunday 12th June - we set off to Stege, on the island of Mon, Caravelle‘s home port. The winds were light and we motored with sunshine all around and feelings of growing excitement and anticipation for the oncoming adventure. Bob took his pills – and the Jamesons never touched the sides of his throat!!! Stege is a lovely friendly town with a marina and harbour and all the facilities you could ask for. The restaurants and bars all very friendly.

The following day we explored the beautiful island of Mon, we borrowed a car from a brave local and Geraldine swopped the tiller for a wheel while Bob manned the braking system – Geraldine seemed to love driving in the shade!! We visited Cindeholn – Bedudw gardens, which was full of families, with their picnic hampers, eating and playing with children playing in the sunshine. The air was full of happy sounds and created a wonderful relaxed atmosphere. We had our first of many ice-creams!!!

Bedudw gardens - there goes the neighbourhood!!! 

At 0900 the next day we fuelled up and set off - our destination Praesto. With South Easterly force 4 winds, we decided to take things cautiously so hoisted the sails and reefed the main. We navigated our way carefully and rather stressfully – well it was our first day!! - through the narrow channels which were well buoyed. Fiona identified a unique system for navigating - showing her fondness of Sesame Street– One Buoy Ha! Ha! Ha! (Count Dracula - muppet style). Four hours and an awful lot of bloody buoys later (Three Hundred and Ninety Seven Buoys Ha! Ha! Ha!) we arrived in Praesto.

We were relieved to find a very comfortable berth and after the constant buoyage – or was it the continual counting by Count Dracula that was doing our head in – anyways, we were looking forward to a relaxed evening. Praesto welcomed us with blue skies, a soft breeze, fluffy white clouds and boats picture perfect in the water - bliss.

Cold beer was called for and we enjoyed the peace and quiet until ….. swans, with their 6 cute cygnets under their wings arrived to tell us it was dinner time. They were followed by half a dozen lager lout mallard ducks trying it on with a poor wee hen, we were greatly entertained and had to feed the swans off the stern and the ducks off the bow to stop the squabbling. After feeding our water babies we turned our attention to our needs- and that‘s when it all went pear shaped!!!

Praesto - Hen and cygnets

Bob enjoyed a few Jamesons for medicinal purposes - thank you nurse Fiona – Mandy helped get rid of the nasty medicine. Wine was drunk by the multitude and Mary pretended to go to bed – three times!!!!

Bob was talking nonsense - we all agreed – even Mary in between dreams or was that nightmares! Good music playing from Gillian‘s IPod– we all miss her and hoped she would join us. Mary is still pretending to be asleep! Not working, Mary!

Mandy was put under pressure to write something in the log but doesn‘t quite know what. She says she‘ll do it tomorrow and all we can say is ?thank goodness? =cos I doubt if it would be legible at this stage! Bob was impressed. He observed that Mandy had been in Denmark only 3 days and was already writing in Danish! Maybe the medicine had got the better of her! Captain Bob is worried over the lack of Jamesons left. 2½ litres down with a mere 1½ litres left. One of our company found that stubbing one‘s toe was a cure for being sea sick – what with it being dead calm and all that!!! We hadn‘t even got off the boat since arriving in Praesto!!!

Next day - we decided to drink in Praesto‘s olde worlde atmosphere – so quaint - roses round every door and gorgeous cobbled streets – Mary took pictures of the cobbles – but we really think she just fell over!!!

Hey Praesto!! - Mary's been cobbled

We spent an industrious day sobering up and cleaning and tidying Caravelle in preparation for our voyage the following day - Tuesday 15th June - to Rodvig. Fiona helmed Caravelle, Geraldine navigated and Mary and Mandy had a hard time sun bathing- I mean, keeping a look out, on the fore deck! Bob sun bathed too, with his wee hat on – Bless!!! Christine would be proud of him.

We were sailing along sweetly at 6 knots with the mizzen and foresail only. Bob had told Mary how to use the mizzen and the benefits of cruising with it. Then he forgot! Then Mary explained to the rest of crew. That‘s the continuum of learning!!!

Bob made yummy cheese and tomato sandwiches to fatten up the crew to sell to a passing white slave trader – but they obviously saw us coming –and had no takers - we motored into Rodvig - a busy fishing harbour and marina with a nice long jetty to come alongside. Five foot wooden figures of traditional sailors welcomed visitors entering the harbour.

Fishing Huts in beautiful Rodvig

We had to come in nose first due to the West wind which made berthing difficult and slightly awkward. After a bit of a panic – sorry – after a controlled approach - we managed and came alongside nicely. The 4 girls clambered off to find showers and replenish the beer store – essential passage planning! We sat on deck sipping beer and munching Danish pastries.

It was a beautiful afternoon with plenty of sunbathing when a lovely 55‘ footer came in and used its bow thrusters to berth. Show off!! We later found out their main roller reefing had got stuck – we offered to go up the mast for them but they had no rum on board for payment!! Well we think that‘s what they said.

We enjoyed another Bob and Christine al fresco story. Bob lost his glasses! After a long search we found them on top of his head! Mary was determined to see the eclipse of the moon – so off she wandered to find a darker location - we saw it fine from the cockpit – what a sight!!! Then one for the road or rather a wee nightcap and we went off to bed. A lovely peaceful day as it has been from the onset. Hic!!

Mary's Moon eclipse - can you tell??

Rodvig to Dragor was a less relaxed passage. Plenty of navigation in exceptionally shallow waters and Geraldine gave a little squeak when the depth sounder disappeared but Captain Bob fiddled with a few knobs and voila! - it re appeared. Mandy was on helm when a navigational warning sounded that a mine had found nearby. Holy Jamoly!! Then a gale warning followed. We were all so tense that when the kettle boiled and started to sing, Geraldine rushed up on deck to see what was happening!

We arrived late into Dragor – tired and emotional with the only available berth left directly in front of a fully packed restaurant – no pressure there Geraldine. With Geraldine on the helm and Bob on the break – it was Bob‘s turn to squeak ?girls have you jumped off yet?? Mary and Mandy were at the bow trying to jump off or rather scale the face of a 15‘ harbour wall! We said hello to the ropes of a big German boat in front of us – Oops!! – Geraldine fluttered her eyelashes and apologised profusely and then commanded the crew to –?Get the beer out - now?!!!

Geraldine then adeptly passed skippering responsibility to Fiona. There was a mixture of panic, fear and excitement and Fiona scurried below to get the pencils sharpened!

Some light relief was urgently required and a dander around Dragor did the trick – houses all shapes and sizes – beautiful thatchwork everywhere – ducks a plenty and chatty as ever and a pretty active sailing club. Really nice spot.

Next morning we left in a hurry – ?cut the bowline and if you don‘t have a knife – use your teeth? Bob always knew how to motivate his crew!!! It‘s funny what you learn in times of panic!! And so off we cruised to Nyhavn in the heart of Copenhagen. We had a much better passage with Count Dracula (Fiona) still making sure we didn‘t miss any buoys.

Entering the port of Copenhagen was fantastic – besides seeing the backside of the Little Mermaid – no modesty there at all - there was so much traffic and we were uncertain where we were going to tie up but Bob spotted the perfect berth. The channel was busy with ferry boats, tour boats and cruisers. So much congestion – so Bob took the helm and the girls did another leap of faith – scaling 10‘ of harbour wall – these walls were obviously built for 6‘ tall Scandinavians – who had to just step up!!! They obviously didn‘t expect four female hobbits from Ireland to be landing!!! Or maybe we just needed a shower.

Mary mentioned we were now part of the major tourist attractions – well her underwear was anyway!!! It was amazing to stand on Caravelle tied up along the quayside at Nyhavn.

Caravelle of Exe - Nyhavn, Copehagan

We all headed off to have a look at this wonderful city. Throngs of people, soooo many on bikes and dedicated bike lanes with their own traffic lights. After near a few misses, Geraldine was almost wiped out – her Scandinavian Green Cross Code hadn‘t quite kicked in yet. The architecture was breath taking. There was an exhibition of elephants throughout the city to raise awareness of the plight of the Asian elephants and Bob couldn‘t resist buying one for Kirstie. They were painted many different colours and different designs by celebrities and artists. We took the boat tour and said hello to the Little Mermaid who nodded to us again.

Yeah - the weather was great!!!

In years gone by at the Copenhagen naval barracks accommodation, the wives placed a dog in the window facing in if their husband was at home and facing out when he was away. (Obviously the mouse wanted to play)!

We had some incredibly heavy showers at times but it was sunny in between and always warm – so Mary got her knickers dried. Every evening was finished off with =one for the road‘ back on board Caravelle after touring vunderful Kobenhagen!

We eventually found showers and hairdryer - Hurrah! The girls all pampered themselves after having to wash down with wipes for last two days. Hair was washed, faces gleaming and no more smelly whiffs and we couldn‘t even blame the ducks!!

Tivoli Gardens, Copehagan - even the ducks have a turret!!

We met the boat from Rodvig again which was actually registered to RNIYC - a Discovery 55 – very nice yacht indeed. We enjoyed drinks aboard with Bobby, Philida and Patricia – really lovely people - we were exceptionally polite don‘t you know and went back to Caravelle to find the Jamesons all gone!!! Disaster!!!!

Next day Bobby invited Geraldine to use his bow thruster - I never saw a girl so willing, she looked great on Huahine - Geraldine got straight out of the bunk, took the wheel and eased off the quay. Geraldine wanted to keep going to Sweden but Bobby made her reverse the boat back and threw her off onto Caravelle - not that that was any hardship!!!

Johnny Matheson came to visit – No – not the singer – Johnny had spent quite a while cruising with our good friends Marion and Jim Stewart (Balu) in the Pacific. It was beer o‘ clock. Bob and Johnny got on really well – mind you Bob was well versed in using the hair straightners and toe separaters by now - that the sight of another man was quite overwhelming!!! We all went to the Round Tower which is used for astronomical observation - see me!!! No steps –just a big ramp that Mandy wanted to roll down!

Johnny sadly had to leave to go back to work – we really enjoyed his company. The crew of Caravelle stayed on board. Bob ended up with a 2 tone shirt and Mary had most of the vodka on the floor. Tired, emotional and pissed but that‘s a normal night. Captain Bob and the four babes enjoyed a few nightcaps - AGAIN, raucous behaviour and then more raucous behaviour.

Johnny and Bob bond

Time passes – it‘s 20th June already and what a memorable day it was.

Sleepy morning in Nyhavn considering the night before!! Up late - eggy bread to kick start and then off to see the Vikings!!!

Our directions weren‘t great but got train into and then out of Copenhagen. We had to take the tickets to queue even though there was no queue! Arrived at Roskilde – such a wonderful historic town! We stopped to see Dom Krelle. What a spectacular and historic Cathedral - the seat of ALL the Danish Royal heritage. There were tombs going back 2000 years – even older than Bob! Magnificent and remarkable history – right within our touch-we really lost ourselves in there.

Onward then to the Viking exhibitions with only 40 minutes left to see around the museum and site - we were just so captivated by the tombs in the Cathedral!! We managed to cover the main museum ok. We even got dressed up in traditional costumes.

Bob does a bit of rope and pill-taking

We had a very quiet evening – our first!!! Next morning we left Copenhagen and a lot of good memories behind and headed bound for Fekse Lapeplad. It always happens when Mandy‘s on the helm! We had gusts of 30 knots – though we were skelping along at 7.9 knots – our local weather centre failed to mention that! Minor avalanche in the fore cabin – sorry Bob‘s cabin – which was also known as the luggage rack and storage facilities for the hair straightners – now you know why Bob grew the beard –just so he wouldn‘t be left out with the straightners!!

Mary took her turn on the helm and luckily the winds eased.

Mary - counting the buoys

Everybody arrived shattered after an 8 hour passage. We dined on deck al fresco and enjoyed a few beers and some wine that happened to have survived the turbulent journey. The evening disintegrated into laughter as usual with Bob telling stories and no one believing them!!!

We left Fekse Lapeplad for Klinthelm at 0915. We heard a panpan about an abandoned boat found not far from us. A helicopter and naval vessel were searching in our vicinity for the skipper – we kept a close watch out but to no avail – we sailed on as the rescue crews kept searching. A very poignant reminder of how vulnerable we are – it gave us much food for thought and glad to be among good friends.

We passed the beautiful chalk cliffs of Mon and motored through the fishing stakes to Klinthelm – Oops Fiona!!! Everyone went to bed! Seriously!!!

Cliffs of Klinthelm, Mon

Maybe that was just as well because the rain came down like steroids – and it was mad calm! Then big time sh** hit the fan – later we realised it was the Summer Solstice!!

Stormbound in Klinthelm. Crazy night—crazy winds – blew like stink! Luckily the harbourmaster had forewarned us and we had checked all our fenders. The noise of the halyards were fierce – our mistake in not tying them back properly. Bob decided to go up top and put the top half of his wet weather gear on and headed out. He did ask Mandy to give him the decency to get down the companionway when he came back below deck again lol. He had forgotten to put the bottoms on – ah the joys of senile dementia!!!

We all retired – but not for long. A change in the motion of the boat woke Mary. Fitzy to the rescue!!! There had been a big drop in the water level and the fenders had popped. The girls bounced on deck to reinstate the fenders – then the ladies night watch ensued. We were all glad when dawn came and the winds dropped to horrendous.

The sea raged and threw up lots of white horses. We all backed the winner!!

It was then we were told about the Summer Solstice ( yeah – now they tell us) and the Danish tradition of lighting bonfires to drive out all the witches to Germany. We went down to the beach to watch the bonfire – it was still blowing stink. However, long after everyone else had left - the 4 witches of Carvelle remained on the beach stoking the fire. The weather eased again but it was still very unsettled. We set the alarm at regular intervals and took it in turn to check the boat and fenders during the night.

Bonfire with a cruise ship caught by the sun set

Friday 24th June - There was an amazing exodus from the harbour as conditions had settled a little but the wind was to increase again so we joined the exodus. Mandy took Caravelle out of Klinthelm harbour using the stern line as a spring. Perfect departure under breezy conditions.

We had a little damage to the paintwork portside after the storm which we couldn‘t get fixed in Klinthelm – so we headed to Stubbekebing to do the repair. Great to be out sailing again under genoa and mizzen.

The wind was on our nose so, for the 1st time this holiday, we motored to our destination. Blustery but dry day. Nearly went into wrong harbour – but Bob did a spectacular handbrake turn into smallest space possible. The town is quiet but lovely none the less. The shops are all closed – just for a change! Champ for dinner – Great! We got the bits and bobs we needed and Bob affected the repair.

Bob had noticed a Tradewind 33 and invited him aboard. Bob told to mind our p‘s and q‘s because he could identify us by our p‘s by at this stage!!

Last Day of cruising – Saturday 25th June. Stubbekebing to Stege. How sad are we – wind on the nose again so we motored all the way back to Caravelle‘s homeport. Everyone was very quiet until we spotted the first true marine life – a couple of friendly porpoises. We still love our ducks and swans who have greeted us at every port.

Into Stege and time to clean Caravelle‘s decks and wash the fender covers to the strains of ELO. Bob‘s knicker drawer was tidied – well he eventually took them off his head – and main and mizzen straightened – just like everyones hair!!! Time to hand back in shipshape and Bristol fashion. We are so sorry to come to the end of such an enjoyable and eventful holiday on Caravelle! Boo Hoo!

4 Babes and 1 Bob

Cruising in Danish waters was fantastic – would recommend it to everyone - but bring plenty of alcohol with you!!!! We loved Caravelle – she is so graceful, homely and comfortable and we hope her hull is still reverberating to endless laughter.

Denmark or Bust

Denmark or Bust

There is a 42 foot yawl I know of, owned by a friend living in Denmark. The boat was designed by Alden, an American, laid up by Halmatic of England and fitted out by a yard in Denmark nearly 40 years ago. I had been told to use it whenever I wanted.

With drink taken I happened to let this slip in a moment of boastfulness. The following day in a state of gentle recovery I was informed that flights were booked from Dublin to Copenhagen and I had a crew of four females. To put my mind at rest they pointed out I travel free to Dublin on the bus pass and one of them, Fiona, was a nurse.

Now for various reasons Christine couldn’t join us but for the first time in our relationship insisted I get travel insurance, explaining to me that I could be a nuisance to the young women involved if I suffered cardiac arrest whilst leading the expedition.

Over the years I have learnt to travel light. Not the girls. Mandy for instance was carrying enough baggage that if her car broke down on a motorway she could have survived for a fortnight.

Geraldine didn’t appear as bad, but only because Fiona took the bad look off her.

As for Mary. She had a suitcase with wheels, plus three rucksacks. Mary on her own looked like an expeditionary force to one of the more isolated parts of the planet.

Upon arrival we were delighted with the boat. It was love at first sight- big with overhangs and gentle curves, beautifully traditional.

In the interest of privacy it was agreed I would sleep forward and if at any time the curtain was pulled across, the forward end was occupied, not necessarily by me. Also it was to be used to store the suitcases. It was like sleeping in a luggage rack.

Now I think it is generally recognised that the first night of any cruise means one or two drinks. Sometimes with the excitement of a strange boat in a strange land one or two drinks could lead to more as tensions start to ease.

The next morning I awoke with a severe pain in my kidney area – a sharp burning sensation. Not one to complain I managed to get out of the bunk only to discover I had fallen asleep on Mandy’s hair straighteners.

Making my way aft, barefooted through the saloon I stood on something. The pain was intense. It turned out the offending article was something known as a toe separator. You may well ask? It seems it does what it says. The female ritual of varnishing the toenails is helped by this device keeping the toes apart making the whole task easier and removing the need for masking tape.

Being of fair complexion I am quite liberal in the use of high factor sun cream. Mary said she didn’t mind me using her foundation cream but recommended I use the cleanser first.

The voyage continued without further incident. Gentle cruising; each evening we would tie up in a small harbour with a meal around the cockpit table exploring the cobbled streets in the morning. The next port of call was never too far away with the ultimate destination – Copenhagen.

Newhaven in Copenhagen was once the Red Light District of the city. But was now the gathering place of the beautiful people. We turned up on a Friday and the party was in full swing -. Pavement cafes and old wooden boats – people young and not so young enjoying themselves.

By now I was feeling very relaxed. The crew had worked well together with faces brown due to wind and spray, hair sticky with salt. We tied up – Bow, stern fore and aft springs – no instructions given and none required, dishevelled but happy.

Mandy plugged in her aforementioned hair straighteners tripping the electricity supply to two cafes and plunging the Mission to Seamen into darkness. Fiona took my pulse.

The sense of achievement that night was such that Mary went to bed four times.

Now don’t misunderstand me, the girls were second to none when it came to sailing it’s just we approached things in different ways. None of the girls went to the toilet alone for instance. One took the urge all of them had to go. For the first time in my sailing career we had a queue at the heads. Now in our case we had two doors into the toilet. One from my cabin and one from the saloon.

Could I suggest to yacht designers that the concept of a revolving door on the heads may be more efficient and speed the whole process up.

Bob Harper

1500 miles through pirate seas

It is about 9 o’clock in the morning and we are passing through the Lakshadweep island group a few hundred miles west of the Indian continent. The wind is almost non existent as I climb the companionway ladder into the cockpit , but something immediately catches my eye and has my full attention! It is a dhow astern chasing after us and apparently gaining on us with a massive bow wave rolling off to port and starboard clearly indicating that it is being pushed hard!

I instantly ram the throttle full ahead! Fortunately for this passage I have readjusted the fuel injector pump stops to allow maximum power, now the race is on! We put out a Pan-Pan call on the VHF explaining our situation but without much hope of assistance as we are more than 250 miles from the coast. With full power the radar shows that the dhow is still gaining, but slowly. I alter course to open ocean (at right angles to the island chain) and by now we can see 5 or 6 men aboard but no sign of any guns. After what seems like an eternity they veer off and we breathe a sigh of relief and reduce our revs to conserve fuel( as we can consume more than 10 litres an hour at full power). No sooner have we settled on course than they resume the chase and it’s back to full power and our evasion course again. This time when we they eventually give up the chase we continue at high speed until they are hull down on the horizon. We don’t know if their intentions were malicious or not but, only a week ago, the Indian navy engaged and sank a pirate dhow in this area!

Two weeks earlier we had arrived in Cochin along with the American yacht Quest. We had experienced a bumpy ride round the coast of Sri Lanka and been tormented by light winds and poorly lit fishing craft on the West Indian coast, so we were very glad at the prospect of a short break. We anchored in a quarantine anchorage off Willingdon Island where we were first visited by pollution control, then the local agent Nasar took both crews ashore to complete the formalities and extract 529 Rupees from us.

The following morning we moved round to Bolgatty Island Marina. This was an interesting passage because the agent acting as pilot ploughed us through several hundred metres of mud riverbed, the keel cutting through the soft bottom like a knife through butter. Once in the marina we had access to a hotel, showers, restaurant, bar and swimming pool – the later,a must because swimming in the turbid waters of Cochin was not for the faint hearted!

Quest’s crew Scott and Jean flew off to visit the Taj Mahal, but on Balu we had a deadline to meet up with our convoy in Oman to make the dangerous passage through the Gulf of Aden.

On Thursday 3rd February, having loaded up with extra fuel, in deck drums, and maximum beer, we cast off for “Alcohol free” Salalah in Oman. We had shared the marina at Bolgatty with the boats of the Blue Water Rally but they were playing their cards close to their chests as far as their intended route and departures date were concerned . However, since they had to clear out in the same office as us we could see that their secret destination was Bombay, further up the Indian coast.

In any case we were now on our own, and all we had to do was ensure that, out of the million-odd square miles of ocean, we were not sharing one with a pirate vessel! Our plan was to identify the main shipping routes and, on the assumption that the pirates would be hunting where the big ships were, that we should avoid these areas as far as possible. Unfortunately the big ships had the same idea and were avoiding the shipping lanes and sailing at night without lights or AIS (Automatic Identification System).

We had light winds during the first three days as we tried to work offshore to clear the Lakshadweep Islands. After our incident with the dhow, we moved clear of the island group and into the deep ocean with more sea room. We worked our way to the north of the shipping lanes and had to motor-sail a fair amount as we encountered a counter current of more than a knot but we were in touch by HF radio with some other yachts heading up from the Maldives, Yacht Imagine was going well, but keeping closer to the Indian coast inside the offshore island chain. We gave them our position but only as a distance and bearing from a notional point “A” so as not to advertise our location to any potential pirates listening in!. Also each morning we reported our position to the UKMTO (United Kingdom Marine Transport Office), who monitor the passage of all vessels through the pirate area. A further precaution we took was to shift our website position from our actual position by between 60 and 100 miles.

On Monday 7th February Imagine reported to us on HF that there were some attacks near us in the shipping lanes. The following morning we heard the Savin Caylyn callsign ICKE calling Mayday as they were under attack in position 12º 14’ N, 65º 33’ E. The skipper sounded scared! We relayed the Mayday call and later heard that the ship was indeed taken by pirates.

Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday were good sailing with 10-15 knots of wind and even a favourable current! The ships were running darkened and so were we, some travelling at 20 knots. However, despite all this we longed for the nights when we could hide in the darkness and were unlikely to be attacked. Dawn was the anxious time, as was the moment when any speck appeared on the horizon – at least until we could identify the type of vessel and its intentions. On Wednesday evening we altered course more to the north to avoid an area where the latest attacks on ships had taken place. We picked up three ships on radar, one to port and two to starboard, none with any lights!

Thursday we saw green turtles, Jouanin’s petrels and masked boobies – this would be a wonderful light wind passage were it not for the anxiety over the piracy situation! (It is reportedly the best ocean passage in the world! But my money is on the Atlantic trade wind route!) The wind fell light again and we had to start the engine to motor-sail. By Friday we had 900 miles behind us and decided it was time to head straight for Salalah in Oman. By sunset we had four targets on the radar and no ship’s lights. We were still motoring along quietly, however the engine was leaking oil from one of the seals and required regular topping up. On Saturday morning (12th February) the wind filled in a little and we were able to sail slowly at 4 knots and, better still, we saw a warship six miles away, a welcome presence. By evening the wind had deserted us again and it was back to engine. The following day the wind freshened from ahead and we were close hauled on full main and genoa for Salalah, only 350 miles away. This time the wind stayed with us and we got great runs of 130 miles a day and flying fish in the cockpit. Monday 14th was my birthday so the wind was a welcome present and we were glad to be shifting rapidly out of this region. On Tuesday we made landfall and a very mountainous land it appeared to be! It was great to know that we would only face one more night at sea. Sunset brought a change to light headwinds so it was motoring again as we did not want to be caught drifting aimlessly in this area. By sunrise we were almost there and by early morning we found ourselves anchored in Salalah harbour with stern lines to the shore,

Once ashore in Salalah we were obliged to engage the services of Mohammed the “agent”, a likeable rogue dressed in flowing white robes who relieved us of US $250 for the privilege of filling in our customs and immigration forms in Arabic. He also arranged car hire (the town was far away), gas bottle fills, diesel fuel, water,phone SIM card and other services. Since the dollars had oiled the bureaucratic machinery well! by lunchtime we were clear to enjoy the dusty pleasures of Salalah, it was a strange feeling to be safe again!

The next day two boats from the Blue Water Rally arrived directly from the Maldives. Later we heard that our friends Yacht Quest had been taken 200 miles from Salalah. This news was quite a shock as we had all been labouring under the illusion that the pirates were really only interested in large ships and their cargoes, however, since the ransom payment for the UK couple”The Chandlers” and their subsequent release, it now appeared that yachts were very much on the menu. It was also now also apparent that the yacht capture area had expanded from a zone, a few hundred miles from the Somali coast, to the include whole of the North Indian Ocean and as far east as the Indian coast.

The following days brought the news that Danish yacht ING had been captured and the sad news that Scott and Jean had been shot along with their crew Bob and Phyllis on board Quest during a failed rescue attempt. Now all our ground rules had been changed, it was dangerous to go on it was probably more dangerous to go back! The trip through to Aden was to be next , but that’s another story!

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